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Blown air heating

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Posted

We have just spent four days in the Forest of Dean and need some advice on our heating system.Our caravan has three hot air vents,one in the washroom,one at the front and one at the back.My problem is the rear vent comes out from under the fixed bed but runs from the heater under the caravan floor.By the time the hot air reaches the vent it is no longer hot.Has anyone had the same problem and if so how did you over come it? Thanks in advance Tom.

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25 answers to this question

Posted

Our heating follows a similar route, but we close the bedroom-end vent as I don't like to be hot in bed. So sorry, can't help.

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Posted

Ours also follows the same route Tom, sounds to me like something has become disconnected or seperated or the heating element has tripped.

Steve

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Posted

Being a twin axle maybe it takes so long to get to the back of the van that the air is cooled.

Try changing your van to a shorter one?

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Posted

I find that in winter if you want any heat from the forward vents it is far more efficient using gas.(Propane) We are usually on rally fields with no mains electric anyway. When electric is available we get the system hot using gas then revert to electric.

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Posted

Found the same problem whilst away over Christmas/New Year.

Think I'll try re-routing the duct (DIY required)

Andy

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Posted

we found this new year and alan, tillys hub slide a v shaped connecting vent dividing thing one way to force more air to the front than the rear and it worked a treat

we do find it takes a while to come through warm at the front as it gets cold on its journey through that long routed pipe thumbup.gif

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Posted

'Fraid we have the other problem - front of the van gets lovely and warm but, irrespective of whether it's on gas or electric, the rear washroom never gets more than luke warm air!!!!

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Posted

Our van tends to get nice and hot BUT it always takes longer on 240v than gas

also the shower/ toilet (back end of the van & furthest from the Heater) is ALWAYS the warmest

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Posted

Unfortunately my vans not got it, is it a big job to have it fitted.

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Posted

Going under the van will not make a difference as the duct runs in an insulated pipe. 620/4 must be post 2000 so should have a Truma heater which as Correen says has an adjustment to the two outlets at the back of the fire, this can be used to give more output to one side or the other. If it's a Carver 2000, 4000 or 5500 then it works slightly different, air can be reduced from one side so giving more to the other..but not the other way round, the right hand side looking over the fire has the ability to give the most output. I have found that the longest pipe run is often on the wrong outlet on these fires. Earlier Carvers with wall mounted control switches are not adjustable.

What I have found from personal experience is this... the fabric of the van in winter needs to get throughly warmed before the air inside becomes 'cosy', this will only be achieved with gas, (and electric if available), to pump the heat in for the first few hours. Once the fabric is warm it takes little from the air and quite gentle heat from electric will then keep the balance. Trying to get the van 'cosy' with electric alone does not work as the losses outweigh the gains

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Posted

The only hot air in our van comes from the wife!!!

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Posted

LOL Dave h, I like that one.

After taking ours back to dealer with the problem of cold air coming out of most of our vents and the dealer's said they could do nothing about it.

Alan (hubby) decided to do 'Mr Fix it' himself and after spending an hour inside and underneath the caravan the other week, out came yards and yards of excess heating pipe.

Result: we now have a warmer caravan on the bown air setting and the bathroom (which never got warm at all before) is also now warm.

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Posted

LOL Dave h, I like that one.

After taking ours back to dealer with the problem of cold air coming out of most of our vents and the dealer's said they could do nothing about it.

Alan (hubby) decided to do 'Mr Fix it' himself and after spending an hour inside and underneath the caravan the other week, out came yards and yards of excess heating pipe.

Result: we now have a warmer caravan on the bown air setting and the bathroom (which never got warm at all before) is also now warm.

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Posted

We never use the blown air heating in our van, prefering to use one of those small fan heaters, but i been thinking about this

what would be the result if I got a pipe from the fan heater and connected it to the outlet in the bathroom, would that circulate the air round the rest of the blown heating ducts ? can I turn the blown air heating fan (blower) on without fire being on etc etc

its a wall mounted control switch for it

any ideas anyone ???

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Posted

So you are saying you have a fan at the back of the fire but it only gets it's heat from the gas fire without any electrical means of heating the air?. Doesn't matter though you can use the fan on it's own whatever system it is.

Two problems with connecting a fan heater to the blown air system, the first is it will probably be more efficient on it's own!!. The second is the possibility of the restriction to the flow of air though the heater overheating it and tripping it out. Don't know if I am right on either but the installed fan will present a problem as well.. as any warm air tries to pass though.

If you do fancy electric blown hot air then Trauma make the ultraheat as an 'add on' for ?146...plus whatever you are charged for a remote sensor to make it work correctly...but it will fit at the back of almost any fire after 1981. Another possible and should be cheaper..if you can find a Carver Fanmaster mk1 from a scrapyard or freeads papers, again it is a simple add on but this time in place of your original fan.

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Posted

Im pretty sure its gas heat only, and the fan is electric (its a carver 3000 heater)

its the black wall switch thing where you can also have it blkowing cold air as well as warm, with a dial for settings

im confused here

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Posted

Yes it is only a 12 volt fan, the control switch is a bit bigger than a match box with the dial and a three position up and down switch, '0', off in the middle, 'A'.

'0' is 'on' and the dial controls the fan speed, 'A' is 'automatic' and the dial then sets the maximum speed the fan will go to. The fan is Truma and so is the fire if you need spares it's a Truma 3002..badged as a Carver, (unless that is...it's a 3000S which is a Carver).

The 240 volt Ultraheat that truma sell fits between the heat exchanger and the aluminium shroud at the back of the fire and will use the separate fan you have. Good thing about this system is you can switch the fan off and use it as a convector for quite running. The Carver Fanmaster is a complete unit that replaces your fan with it's own and has inbuilt elements..problem here is the fan must always be on while using mains for heating.

Crafty putting the pictures up later??...make that a 'solid' '0'

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Posted

Thanks for that Gary, clarified it nicely for me

It says Carver Auto 3000 on front, so I assume its not the Carver 3000s

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Posted

No.. now I have seen the piccies it's a Truma underneath..but if anyone else reads it will still make sense

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Posted

No.. now I have seen the piccies it's a Truma underneath..but if anyone else reads it will still make sense

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Posted

Going under the van will not make a difference as the duct runs in an insulated pipe

Are you sure Gary mine has an outer pipe Black with the brown one inside it but no insulation in between.

If you put your hand on it when running you will find it to be warm, That's where the heat is going warming the outside whilst you are inside in the cold. I have tried injecting foam between the two pipes but have yet to try it in the cold to see if it works.

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Posted

Going under the van will not make a difference as the duct runs in an insulated pipe

Are you sure Gary mine has an outer pipe Black with the brown one inside it but no insulation in between.

If you put your hand on it when running you will find it to be warm,? That's where the heat is going warming the outside whilst you are inside in the cold.? I have tried injecting foam between the two pipes but have yet to try it in the cold to see if it works.

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Posted

gary

at cromer i left mine on 1000w all the time if the door got left open to long we did not loose to much heat as i had a halogen heater running on 800w durin day and evening i also had windows on first opening on awningside and roof helki on first opening to stop any condisation

i have never used my heater on gas only to test its working even when i was in sussex at -10c

i sometimes have to shut vent in lounge area as it gets a tad to hot for my comfort

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Posted

As Smiffy mentioned Truma heaters....I am currently investigating the exact problem of 'not switching back on' and your feedback would be most welcome as all I have to go on is relayed though a dealer.

As I understand it the heater with the remote fitted will work OK above 7 on the dial but not below this and once it switches off it will not come back on again unless 7 or above is set on the dial...is this correct?.

Fitting the remote cures the problem of control switch position and hence the original position of the temperature sensor which is within the switch. The problem here is the temperature at the back of the switch effects the temperature more than the temperature it is supposed to measure in the living area. The temperature in the wardrobe perhaps reaches the temperature set and the fire switches off, the wardrobe then and everything in it including the fire itself has to cool down before the thing will switch back on again!!. Once the remote is fitted in a more sensible position this problem should disappear...and for the most part it does. Problem here is I think nothing to do with this, although fitting the remote may improve matters somewhat...Anything more you can tell me??

Initial Findings

I think I have the problem solved....certainly dispelled the myths anyway.

It would seem there is a batch of faulty control boards, this is on the back off the fire and is where the remote plugs into. Once the electric heating switches off it will not switch back on until physically turned up. The thing about working above 7...26c!! is because it never gets there..so never switches off

While investigating I did find this out which would apply to all...putting a temperature to the numbers on the dial. I have mentioned 7 but picking 5 to start with a remote stat fitted is 18c and 6 is 22c...so 4deg between each number and it switches on and off with a rise or fall of 2 degrees. Given this 'tight' temperature control..it should work beautifully and keep a very even temperature in the van???. Without the remote, 4 is 16c...so the numbers vary slightly, 1 being 4degs which would be handy for frost control.

Another spin-off is this...there is no point in messing about fitting the remote at shoulder height as some suggest or head height above the door as is recommended in the instructions...it's just adding work!!. The sensor will operate just as well or better if fitted at floor level where it will react faster to temperature change.

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Posted

We never use the blown air heating in our van, prefering to use one of those small fan heaters, but i been thinking about this

what would be the result if I got a pipe from the fan heater and connected it to the outlet in the bathroom, would that circulate the air round the rest of the blown heating ducts ? can I turn the blown air heating fan (blower) on without fire being on etc etc

its a wall mounted control switch for it

any ideas anyone ???

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