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A Newbie with a question :-)

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Posted

Hi All, Ive just made myself a member of this site, it looks a good one too, so I thought Id pop a message in this Forum as I have just inherited a 5 berth caravan, and, as it needs work doing to it Im intending to work on it through the winter with the intention of using it properly from next spring.

The caravan is a 1991 Feetwood Garland 165-5

I have no instructions with it, I've not had a caravan before, so my first question is does anyone know where I can obtain a users manual for it ?

All the bits and pieces appear to be there regarding battery, fridge, sink, etc, but under the seat there is the electrical units and Ive tried turning the switches to 'on' and nothing happens, maybe the battery is flat. I just thought if I had a manual at least I would have a starting point. Also there appears to be an electrical control panel, switches, fuses etc, none of which are working. Then there's the water etc, lol..lots to learn.

Anyways, my name is Andy Whitham, 59, from Denby Dale in West Yorkshire and wouldlike to say " Hi " to all members old and new.

Many thanks

~~ Andy

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Posted

Hi Andy,

Welcome to the forum, some one local to yourself maybe able to help first hand ( I live in France ).

Other than that I'd suggest booking it in for a service and ask if you can be on site and given instructions on all the relevant user details ie: el/ hook up, water, gas etc. A good dealer will be glad to offer such services and welcome a new owner ( future customer ! )

Good luck, Happy caravanning, indoors.

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Usually you get a whole load of instruction books. One for the Toilet, another for the Water, one for the fire etc etc. Dont expect a single book that covers the lot.

To be honest a 1991 van will be simpler than a "new" one, I prefer the older stuff. Its either on or off.

Get the aquaroll filled and the pump connected and get it plugged into the mains........you will soon work it out

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Posted

The Fleetwood Owners Club could be a good place for info and they have a 'Manuals Download' Section (for Members) BUT it seems as though 1991 models are missing. Still think it's a good place to start though!

http://fleetwood-owners-club.co.uk/

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Posted

Haynes caravan manual is good, very general but not a bad starting point for a novice

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Posted

thanks to all members who have replied, some useful info there, much appreciated ~ andy

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Posted

Hi

for the water and room heater manuals down load from

Arc Systems

www.arcsystems.biz/

If the panel /elc are Zig

Zig Manuals - 12 Volts DC - Webs

www.freewebs.com/12voltsdc/zigmanuals.htm

Dave

Owners mantal search for "preset graphics" printer for a lot of caravan manufactures manuals

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Posted

Your gas fire should be Carvers SPL3002, this is highly useful as it's really the current Truma 3002 in disguise so all spares are available and the excellent manual is on my website. Tip with printing this A5 manual is to print odd pages first and evens on the reverse of odd pages to form an A5 booklet

Water heater will be the Cascade mk2 and you will find what follows far more useful than the cascades manual?!

The Carver Cascade 2 is a 9 litre storage water heater, which when running on gas will heat the water to 65deg c in about 45 minutes. On 240V mains assuming it has this facility, the time can be somewhat longer or shorter depending on the wattage (630w 3amp to 840w 5amp) of the element fitted, you can use both gas and electric together for faster times.
To operate the gas there is a wall switch or a switch within a main control panel, either way both have three lights green, amber and red. When switched on the green lights, (water tank must be full, i.e. water coming from hot taps), if it stays on after about 8 seconds then the gas has lit and all is well. If the green is joined by the red then you may have a problem, but if the gas bottle has just been changed then air in the pipes will have to be bled through by repeating the above 2 or 3 times. Once lit, and it should light without any pops and bangs, (this would indicate it needs a service), the heater looks after itself and gives constant hot water. Any problems will cause it to shut down safely and show the red light. Forget the amber light, it's to show low voltage and won't light unless the voltage is so low the heater and everything else packed up long since, though you may notice it 'flash' as the switch is turned on or off.
The 240v immersion heater if fitted is totally separate, and lies behind a white plastic box on the inboard end of the water tank. It is controlled by a switch, often close by and at floor level, but again sometimes as part of a remote control panel. The switch has a red light to show it's 'on', not that it's working, this will be determined by the water getting hot. If it does not then it may have 'tripped' Two types exist, early circa 1990 are non-re-settable but are repairable. Later models have a Red button on the end of the plastic box which is sometimes behind a little flap. Switch off mains, and press to reset.
Other faults concerning the gas side very often come down to the 'Burner Module'. This handy little unit contains the burner, gas valve and all the electronics which control it and is accessible from behind the cover outside of the van. In the event things go wrong it's a 5 minute job to replace it, with a new or serviced exchange unit. One other safety device is a wax filled 'fusible' plug, this again is behind the outer cover and shows itself as a 13 mm nut set in the fins above the burner. The wax will melt if things get too hot allowing hot water from the tank to spray over the burner and put the flame out. This will render things safe but will require a new module because it's control circuitry is faulty. However given if the fuse 'blows' without the water apparently getting to hot then replacing the plug will be sufficient. The point to note here is that over time the wax in the plug degrades or the threads leak, at the very least allowing water to seep onto the burner causing it to rust and eventually will still require replacement of the whole burner module.
Further problems that come to light in spring is the discovery of frost damage to the water tank, the non-return valve which is part of the cold water inlet and other plastic fittings. Failing to drain the heater when there is a chance of temperatures dropping below freezing can be very expensive to repair and should be avoided by removing the drain bung and allowing the heater to drain completely. Later models have a valve above the drain hole in the top left corner of the flue cowl, these have a 'toggle' showing that when turned a ¼ in any direction will allow air into the tank and assist the draining. Older models still have the valve but the flue cowl needs to be removed and the valve end pulled to open it, in this case opening all taps in the van will do much the same thing. It is most important that the drain bung is then only placed back into the hole and not screwed in, any water left in the system can then drain away.
Frost damage to the tank will be obvious by the leaking water from the damaged seal, the damaged non-return valve quite often will prevent water coming from the hot taps although the cold water flow will be fine. Other fittings are often cracked by the pressure of the frozen water and will leak on refilling the system.

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Posted

If you are really stuck for anything I am only a few miles from you, If just post on here I am sure you will get all the help you need, If not I am due back to my House! In a week or two I could always pop up and have a look,

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Posted

Hi all,

Good advice offered and I'm sure welcome to new a new member of this forum. Very good of fishman to offer his help first hand.

Good on ya John, Happy caravanning, indoors.

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Posted

Smiles...thanks to all who replied.......very, very useful....

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