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Thetford N175 fridge oddity

Question

Posted

Anyone got an idea why my firdge tends to not cool down when I connect it up?

Typical scenario (ie it's happened both times I wanted to bring the temperature down prior to going away) is that I plug in the ehu. All breakers in correct position and fridge has a steady blue light. Make sure the led screen shows the plug (for 240v) and that the temp is set to 5 bars.

But it doesn't seem to actually get cold, or any heat come from the top fridge vent.

However I have a press of the buttons and last time it started to come down okay and was fine while we were away on ehu.

This time, I don't seem to be so lucky, so far.

It doesn't seem to be coming down at all and only seems to be an issue once it's been switched off for a while.

Glad for any thoughts please as we are away tomorrow afternoon and I would rather not run on gas if I am paying for leccy.

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Posted

Right, that's that sorted!

The fridge (or installation) has to see a +12v input from the vehicle, not just via Pin 10 which is the switched supply, but also from Pin 9 which is the permanent +12v supply. Rebooted the fridge and after several clicks and clonks from behind the unit I heard the engine/alternator take up the load and it started cooling. Happy days!

But...

Does anyone else think it's a bit strange that by supplying 12v on Pin 9 direct from the battery, it is inviting the car to try and use the 'van battery if it's down a bit (such as when parked for a little while with parking lights on? Or is it diode controlled at the 'van end, do we think?

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Posted

Whoops not sure of the model now as I have no i.d. on it.

It's the two door model with seperate freezer compartment and led display but apparently no SES

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Posted

Hmm that's odd. It's working now, and all I did in sheer desperation was to turn the 12v power switch on. There is definitely heat now emanating from the top vent.

Does that sound right? Should the fridge have to have the main switch for the 12v 'van electrics on for it to start working?

Just seems a strange idea to me.

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Posted

The fridge needs 12 volts to the control board so needs the vans 12 volt master switch on.

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Posted

Just a guess but if the fridge is in auto power source mode you need the 12V on. Try manually selecting mains power (plug picture on the display unit) without the 12V on and see what happens.

If you don't have AUTO mode power selection on the fridge then ignore this post.

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Posted

Ah that's confirmed it then, thanks for that.

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Posted

It needs 12v even on gas because there is no pilot light these days.

The fridge and alarm system are normally wired to a permanently live supply not through the master switch.

Ian

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Posted

Thanks, Ian.

Which would make perfect sense to me, however it seems the main 12v switch on the panel has to be on before the fridge will get cold on 240v despite the LED display showing and the blue power LED showing a steady light.

Still, if that's the only quirky thing then I'll live with it ;)

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Posted

Ok having to resurrect this thread as I have another issue/misunderstanding.

I have finally sorted the electrics on the truck so I now have a healthy 12v switched supply again for the fridge. This outputs correctly @14v through pin 10. Pin 11 goes to earth on the truck.

However despite this, the fridge shows error 10 which states no 12v signal from vehicle :(

Is there a particular way to switch it?

Does it need the other 12v feeds connected for the battery charging etc?

TIA

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Posted

Just had this on my Avante. Nothing to do with the fridge, turned out to be the main power distribution p.c.b. in the unit wherre all the van fuses are. It is, apparently, a known fault where a track burns out on the p.c.b. as it can't handle the juice - design fault on the van power supply. Got mine fixed under warranty. Actual job description was "Replace p.c.b. in DPU due to track burning out. Part RMA 13540."

Hope this helps.

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Posted

Thanks Bob, I might take it to bits and look at a resolder job with some jumpers if that looks to be the problem.

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