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Trauma water heater no go with electricity

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Perhaps it's just me but virtually every year when I get the van ready for the upcoming season something has gone wrong or won't work from last autumn when it worked very well.

This time the Truma Ultrastore water heater doesn't want to go on electricity. Works fine on gas but I can't afford to run it that way for any length of time.Checked the main fuse and that's ok, swapped the 5amp fuse in the main water heater switch for another(3 amp was all I had as a spare) still no go. I haven't checked the 1.5 amp fuse in the area of the pcb on the water heater.Could that be the reason or is it something that's staring me in the face that I cannot see?

I wouldn't mind this problem but the main hot water cylinder in our central heating system in the house has sprung a leak and has been condemned after dumping its contents through our lounge ceiling and we could have used the caravan shower and washroom because the caravan is parked under our bathroom window in the garden and would have been the perfect substitute .

We have so much expertise in the area of caravan water heaters that I know someone will be able to tell me what and how to deal with this problem.I hope!

Tonio

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6 answers to this question

Posted

In all probability the element has failed, unless you had the heater switched on before filling the water system, in which case it has overheated and activated the overheat cut out.

The 1.5a fuse on the PCB has nothing at all to do with the electric heating side, it is ONLY for gas control.

It needs checking out and a new element fitted if it has failed.

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Posted

In all probability the element has failed, unless you had the heater switched on before filling the water system, in which case it has overheated and activated the overheat cut out.

The 1.5a fuse on the PCB has nothing at all to do with the electric heating side, it is ONLY for gas control.

It needs checking out and a new element fitted if it has failed.

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Posted

In all probability the element has failed, unless you had the heater switched on before filling the water system, in which case it has overheated and activated the overheat cut out.

The 1.5a fuse on the PCB has nothing at all to do with the electric heating side, it is ONLY for gas control.

It needs checking out and a new element fitted if it has failed.

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Posted

If you have a clamp meter you can check that it is pulling around 3 amps when switched on

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Posted

Thank you all for your suggestions on solving my problem of no electric water heating with Truma Ultrastore .After trying various suggestions I telephoned Tony at Chipping Sodbury's service dept. He is ex. Bailey and has always given good advice and this time he diagnosed it perfectly. He said he'd had about 10 owners with this problem and his advice had obviously worked because none of them had come back to him.

Apparently it is important to ensure that the water heater is filled with water and there is no air in the unit or in the pipes en-route to the taps before the heater is switched on.To start with everything must be disconnected electrically, the water heater should be filled and the taps opened in the hot position with the pump running to exhaust any air. The power can then be re-connected and then the heater switched on. And it worked. I also changed the 5 amp fuse just to be on the safe side.

I'm just very pleased that it wasn't the element which had failed.

Tonio

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Posted

When pitching, I switch the pump off, connect pump, open the kitchen hot tap, close all the other taps and then switch on the pump - after a few seconds I switch on the electric heater - when the air stops coming out of the tap, replaced by water, I turn the tap off and then turn each tap on/off in sequence to get rid of air.

I guess the important thing is to ensure that "some" water is in the water heater before heating it up.

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