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Heating Question

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Posted

We've just got back from our half term trip and it was so nice..

But i have the following question, went onsite we had the heating on (for her indoors) and we set it to 2000 and then 9 on the heating control.

Then on the fire the fan was set for 3 and in postition "A" , but the heat in the van never got really hot..

Onsite it was 16amps, and we had the battery charger and the water heater on as well, i then turned them of to see if it made any difference, but it didn't..

I will try it tomorrow now we are home and see what we get here, but i'm sure we havd this before and when at home it got really hot...

Anyone got any ideas? Had this before?

Thanks Dodge

Another question, how do you find the thermastat in the van? without pulling the fire out and tracing the wire?

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53 answers to this question

Posted

We've just got back from our half term trip and it was so nice..

But i have the following question, went onsite we had the heating on (for her indoors) and we set it to 2000 and then 9 on the heating control.

Then on the fire the fan was set for 3 and in postition "A" , but the heat in the van never got really hot..

Onsite it was 16amps, and we had the battery charger and the water heater on as well, i then turned them of to see if it made any difference, but it didn't..

I will try it tomorrow now we are home and see what we get here, but i'm sure we havd this before and when at home it got really hot...

Anyone got any ideas? Had this before?

Thanks Dodge

Another question, how do you find the thermastat in the van? without pulling the fire out and tracing the wire?

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Posted

Thermostat is above the fire and opposite side to the wardrobe, i can hear the thermostat click on and off.

Just tried the heating with the van at home and it's still not really hot..

Dodge

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Posted

It could be tripping becouse the fire itself is too hot, try putting the fan on full

Paul

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Posted

It could be tripping becouse the fire itself is too hot, try putting the fan on full

Paul

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Posted

Try using heater on gas first, to bring the whole caravan up to temperature, then use electric element to keep it there.

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Posted

The electric side of the heater was only added as a background heat source. The unit is primarily designed to be used on gas.

As has been said, use gas to get to temp, then use electric to maintain it.

Using the fan on full will draw cold air over the element much faster, and diminish the heating properties, slower fan speed equals more heat from the unit.

If the heater gets to temp, then cuts out and will not come back on, it needs a remote sensor to override the wall switch thermostat, as it is probably being kept too hot by being shrouded by a locker, void etc.

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Posted

The electric side of the heater was only added as a background heat source. The unit is primarily designed to be used on gas.

As has been said, use gas to get to temp, then use electric to maintain it.

Using the fan on full will draw cold air over the element much faster, and diminish the heating properties, slower fan speed equals more heat from the unit.

If the heater gets to temp, then cuts out and will not come back on, it needs a remote sensor to override the wall switch thermostat, as it is probably being kept too hot by being shrouded by a locker, void etc.

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Posted

The electric side of the heater was only added as a background heat source. The unit is primarily designed to be used on gas.

As has been said, use gas to get to temp, then use electric to maintain it.

Using the fan on full will draw cold air over the element much faster, and diminish the heating properties, slower fan speed equals more heat from the unit.

If the heater gets to temp, then cuts out and will not come back on, it needs a remote sensor to override the wall switch thermostat, as it is probably being kept too hot by being shrouded by a locker, void etc.

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Posted

Dave,

Ours doesn't say much at all about the heating...

Still surfing to find more info...

Dodge

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Posted

The only time i use gas is if we are off leccy, your electric heating should be well up for winter caravanning, sounds like there is a problem somewhere Dodgey,

Over to you Gary!!

Steve

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Posted

I agree with Steve - only use gas when no power available.

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Posted

I agree with Steve - only use gas when no power available.

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Posted

I'm sure our manual also recommends against higher fan speeds and even suggests turning the fan off for maximum heat output, the fan only moves the air around to the air vents and without the fan all the heat comes from the fire itself. I would imagine as it gets colder you want a bit of air through the vents to keep the washroom warm but I usually keep the fan very low speed.

Either that or you have a fault somewhere would by my 2 best guesses

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Posted

We are the same, as before it was roasting with electric, and as you pay for it, i hate to used gas when i don't have to....

Dodge

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Posted

If you're sure that the heater (on electric) isn't as good as it used to be, then it can only be that something has gone wrong.

My posting about using gas, along with the other posts about positioning of the thermostat, and the speed settings on the fan etc are all just ways of trying to work around your problem. They might make your 'van warmer, but they don't explain why it changed from OK to cold.

Trouble is, the kind of problem you've got could be expensive to trace/fix, unless you're prepared to wait for it to fail totally (which makes the fault easier to trace!).

I think you do need to look at this on 2 levels:

1) Try anything cheap that will fix the immediate symptom (but won't satisfy the nagging question of the root cause)

2) Over a longer period, try to establish more specifics to tie the problem

As far as gas being expensive, it depends whether you have a choice about hook-ups. Given the choice, I'd always decline a hook-up, as there's no way I use that much gas, and my 12v power is solar fed, and runs most 240v items (via built in invertor). If you use sites where hook-up is included (like it or not) then I agree, use 240v wherever you can. But then, I'm a tight fisted Yorkshireman.

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Posted

All of the above makes sense, but it used to get really hot on electric and now it doesn't, so something must be wrong, but where do i start with fault finding?

Tried with Gas and yes it makes it hot, but when back on electric it is still not hot.

When it used to work we could put our hand anywhere near the grill, now we can put our hand on it??

How do i get details on the "remote sensor" ???

Cheers for all the help

Dodge

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Posted

The above sounds like my fire,

I have to run the fire with the fan on full or it trips the heater & it needs to be switched off & on again,

it does get warm throughout the caravan :sweatdrop: but its a pain on a night (we use earplugs)

I fitted a remote, & had a new control panel fitted under warantee....

plot thickens..........Paul

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Posted

On 2kw at this time of year it should be more than adequate to heat the van, however when it's really cold use both to get some heat in to the van and then drop back to electric only.

As far as the fans concerned, 'a' is for automatic, the fan speed number you set is then the maximum speed the fan can spin up to, however under that ceiling it will adjust the speed automatically depending on the heat output.

While the fan is running though, it will greatly reduce the heat coming from the front but not the overall heat.

It's been said about the back of the control switch controlling the van temperature, a quick check is to leave the back exposed to the vans general area so it and the van are at the same temperature> If this seem to solve the problem then a remote temp sensor will cure it permanently and you can get them from me.

What worries me in this case is it's worked ok before, so there's also the main control pcb, two overtemp stats and just possibly one of the elements to consider.

The simplest way of testing the lot is to use a 'clamp' type amp meter over the mains input cable and measure whats being used when the fire should be at maximum. If it shows 8 or 9A then fine but if less then one of the above is faulty.

Do you know a friendly electrician Dodge?

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Posted

On 2kw at this time of year it should be more than adequate to heat the van, however when it's really cold use both to get some heat in to the van and then drop back to electric only.

As far as the fans concerned, 'a' is for automatic, the fan speed number you set is then the maximum speed the fan can spin up to, however under that ceiling it will adjust the speed automatically depending on the heat output.

While the fan is running though, it will greatly reduce the heat coming from the front but not the overall heat.

It's been said about the back of the control switch controlling the van temperature, a quick check is to leave the back exposed to the vans general area so it and the van are at the same temperature> If this seem to solve the problem then a remote temp sensor will cure it permanently and you can get them from me.

What worries me in this case is it's worked ok before, so there's also the main control pcb, two overtemp stats and just possibly one of the elements to consider.

The simplest way of testing the lot is to use a 'clamp' type amp meter over the mains input cable and measure whats being used when the fire should be at maximum. If it shows 8 or 9A then fine but if less then one of the above is faulty.

Do you know a friendly electrician Dodge?

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Posted

So when the fan is on "A" and the speed is set to 0 it does seem to be warmer in there, still waiting to see if it gets really hot.

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Posted

I thought the 'A' was automatic - ie that it ignored the speed setting and chose its own?

Mine has three settings - off, on (to the speed setting chosen) or A.

Oops - just realised Gary has already covered that. Didn't know it was restricted to the speed setting though - I've just learned something new.

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Posted

Automatic varies the speed setting, but only up to the speed you've set.

During the day I set our Truma Ultraheat to automatic, speed 5 (max) and simply drop the speed down to 1 (min) overnight. The automatic sorts it out during the day and I don't get speed variations in the night which might wake me up.

On hook-up, I set the power switch to suit the outside temperature - 500w above 12 degrees overnight forecast, 1000w at 6>11, 2000w at -6>6, below -6 I'd use gas as well but we haven't had to, yet!

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Posted

Is there any better manauls on the web, anyone know?

Dodge

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Posted

Hi Mate, (You've just been readin it ) Been eating fish again have we!!!

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Posted

After advice from Garry !!! -( thanks Garry xxxx)

- I mentioned to my dealer that I wanted the remote thermostat sensor moving and putting in a more sensible position -- rather than on the wood work surrounding the flue !!! (not the best place as when the flue got warm it shut of the heater !!

They moved it for me - on the next service (Free Of Charge ) and put it low down on the side of the cupboard next to the door... probably a cold spot... can't notice it -- looks like a little brown button..

Since then we have had no problems with the heating in the van and the dial thermostat on the wall -- it does just as it says --- much better....

Now why didn't Abbey think of that !!!

Maurice

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