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OH NO!! - Damp Problems again!!

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Posted

wall.JPG

Many of you may remember my posts earlier this summer regarding resealing all of my van. I did this after the annual service in May identified some areas of high damp meter readings. The dealer recommended having parts of the van resealed. As I had recently become unemployed I saved money and used my time by resealing the whole van myself.

However whilst away this weekend I found a small(3-4 sq inches) "soft" area in the rear nearside corner where the back and nearside wall join.

Very concerned I took the van into a local dealer (A) on the way back from our holiday. The dealer (A) found damp readings of 60 down the rear nearside corner. Dealer (A) said that the rear corner awning rail and rear awning rails would need to be removed and resealed. The rear and side internal wallboards would need to be removed and replaced. As the wallboards are inside the fitted wardrobe all of the wardrobe would have to be taken out. Dealer (A) esxtimated that this would require 20-30 hours work at ?35/hour (ie, ?700-?1050), 2 sheets of wallboard and screws and other sundries. I WAS STUNNED.

I then returned to the dealer (B) who had carried out the service in May. Dealer (B)carried out another damp test (?15!!). He confirmed the findings of the other dealer (A). Dealer (B), however, said that he did not think it was worth replacing the wallboard and suggested only resealing 3 lengths of awning rail at a total cost of ?285 and drying out the wallbord with an electric heater myself.

I can see no point in resealing the rails again as I did that really carefully and thoroughly and I find it hard to believe anyone could do it better.

My real dilema is whose advice v, Dealer (A) or Dealer (B), do I follow regarding the replacement or nor of the wallboards!?

If I leave it am I risking damp spreading throughout the caravan?!

Is it possible to dry out the wall from the inside?!

The good news was that the damp readings in other places had improved.

I'd appreciate any comments or advice

Thanks

Tim

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10 answers to this question

Posted

to be honest -- once you have got damp in a van -- it is VERY difficult to get rid of... It seems to percolate -- like a flat roof on a house -- the damp is sometimes nowhere near the hole where the water comes in....

You will have to decide if you are - or want to continue - and are prepared to try to find the leak.. and try to stem the flow until the next time -- or -- make a hard decision... to sell or not to sell... icon8.gif

Like Shakespear....

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Posted

wall.JPG

.  .  .

However whilst away this weekend I found a small(3-4 sq inches) "soft" area in the rear nearside corner where the back and nearside wall join.

. . . . .

I'd appreciate any comments or advice

Thanks

Tim

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Posted

Tim, I'm afraid I agree with Maurice and any serious damp ingress is exceedingly difficult to remedy completely, without a lot of work and expense.

. . . .

Sorry to be so pessimistic, but I've been there, and had the resin and expanded polyurethane, 'sticky fingers' and tee-shirt!

Good luck, on whatever you decide.

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Posted

You need to keep a dehumidifer running all the time in ypur camper

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Posted

Could someone please describe how damp manifests itself on the interior wall lining, I have recently noticed an area of what looks like a group of 'pimples' appearing where the sidewall meets the front panel. My van is a Avondale Windsor that required a new front panel to be fitted last August due to stress cracking and the affected area is close to the join.

Many thanks.

Raston

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Posted

im sorry to say that your "pimples" is definitely damp. most wallboards used by avondale have this characteristic when damp.

in other caravans, staining, ripples, pimples, and ridges are all tell tale signs of damp.

damp is very easy to cure and remidy if you have the knowledge. dehumidifiers do not work because the covering is vinyl and therefore water tight. so the moisture gets trapped in the construction of the wall. once moisture is in the wall with high readings, the only answer is to remove the wallboard, dry the timber framework and replace if needed, then reinstate new wallboard.

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Posted

Hi All,

Water is a damn nuisance in the wrong place, sorry for stating the 'Bleedin' obvious. However, I did strip down, and scrap, a caravan and there was nothing there which would frighten a competent DIY technician :thumbsup: .With that in mind I removed the rear panel from a leaky Swift and resealed it. This involved removing awning rails etc, along both sides and replacing wooden batons (I was told that they were called sticks- they looked like batons to me). I also needed to replace the rear window surround but I used the old wood as a template.

If you are confident, and competent, and have help then instead of 'bodging' go for the repair yourself, just be sure that you use the appropriate sealant and ensure every surface is clean, dry and that all there is no rot left. Be sure that this is not for the faint hearted 'bodge merchant' and you must be thorough,

Regards,

Ian

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Posted

Thanks guys for the replies and advice, the dealer has agreed to inspect and repair the damp wall board area under the warranty given with the front panel replacement work, only problem there is that we will be without the van for a few weeks.

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Posted

Hi All,

My 1990 (leaky) Lunar 390/2 has soft inner walls under windows-the nearside being the worst. I was wondering if I injected expanding foam into the cavity- making sure that there was a vent hole, would this strengthen the walls to make van last another 2 years. Then I could scrap it, as I will have retired. After 40 years by then driving HGV/LGV, I won't want to bother towing. I could then get a small car to gad about in.

By the looks of the dry sealant under window rubbers, that could have been the start of my woes.

Is there any easy way to get awning and side rail screws out. They are too hard to drill, and to be honest, I have forgotten what I used when I resealed left side of van. It's an age thing :dunno:

Thanks,

Greg

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Posted

im sorry but there is no cavity in a caravan wall, so you cannot inject anything. when screws are rusty you can use a carbon tipped drill to drill them out. the only sealant i recommend for ally rails is soudal fixall sealant.

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