9 replies to this topic

[idb]

I have just been away for two weeks and a few days before i came home my fridge stopped working on 240v but still works fine on gas.

The fridge is an Electrolux RM4230.

I have seen from other posts that this is likely to be the 240v heating element. What i need to know is how to access this to test it as i have never removed the fridge before. Does it need to be accessed by removing the fridge or can it be accessed through the vent?

Also what causes these elements to fail. Is there any way of preventing it happening again.

[boff]

The easiest way is to remove the fridge.  Remove the 4? mounting screws from the frame and pull out a littleway  then disconnnect the gas.  However I could not get the fridge away all away from the frame and had to change the element from the vent you need to remove the whole frame not just the cover, and it is still like wallpapering the hall through the letter box but you do need to access the top of the fridge to make the connnections so if you can get the fridge out then it is an easy job so I am told.

Why do they fail?  Because they can!!

[idb]

Thanks for that.

I will try and get the fridge out to check it, hopefully it will come out easily and i wont have to do it through the vent.

Is it easy to tell which is the 240v element and which is the 12v (ie can to be easliy traced to the switch)?

[boff]

From memory it was easy to trace

[gary]

I wrote the following on how to change the element for someone else so all may not apply, but to be sure the element is at fault you need to test it.
Following the instructions to get the fridge part way out, expose the electrical connections and locate the ends of the pair of 240v element wires. Using a multimeter you can now check the resistance of the element and this should be 470ohms or very very close to this.


Most fridges are the same to remove, don't worry about it not being a flexible gas connection though, worry if it is? Flexible hose was banned years ago and should when found be replaced with rigid copper, this is then installed in a 'u' shape across the top of the fridge to allow plenty of movement to get at the gas connection. In your case this will be how your fridge will have been installed in the first place.
To remove, first remove the top vent outside and pull the alloy flue extension clear of the top of the flue stack.
Inside and inside the fridge you will find four 2p sized plastic screw covers, two on each side. remove caps and unscrew the four screws, it's a good idea to magnetize your screwdriver on an old speaker magnet so you can get the screws right out, the point has a habit of making nasty scratches on any woodwork it passes!!
The fridge should now come forward about 6 inches and enough to get at all the connections, there’s a bit of a knack to supporting the weight of the fridge which makes pulling it out easier! Once the gas connection is free, it's worth pulling it further to see if 12v and 240v connections are plugged to save you disconnecting the wiring the hard way. Once all is disconnected the fridge can be pulled clear.
Fitting the new element,
The element is inside the insulation around the flue and simply sits in a tube. To gain access you will first need to find the three tiny tabs which hold the lid of the insulation tube down, bend these up and out the way and then do likewise with the lid. Now the claw joint of the tube can be squeezed together and allow the tube to come apart, but only half way down to the elements.
There should be a tie wrap holding the element and the 12v one and you'll need to cut this first, now you can wiggle the old element out of it's tube, install the new element  making sure it’s in it’s tube and put this lot back together first and don't forget to fit a new tie wrap. Now remove the old element and wiring while you follow it with the new. This way you cannot make a mistake with the route and you will end up with the old element still connected to the switch, thermostat and earth. Now you cannot make the mistake of wiring these connections incorrectly if you pull off one at a time and replace it with the new elements connection as you go.
Putting the fridge back is a straight reversal but of course the gas connection needs to be checked as does the electrical ones if you needed to disconnect at the switches, a good tip here is to take a few photos first. Also by removing the bottom vent someone can help support the weight and guide the fridge back over the draught excluder should this be fitted!


Allow 45 minutes to do the whole job

[idb]

Thanks for the help everyone.

I mangaed to change this tonight by pulling the fridge out far enough to get at the electrical connetions and doing the rest through the vents at the back.

On question though. I am hoping Gary may be able to help me with this as i have read you supply parts.
My fridge is a RM4230 and i ordered the part form leisure shop direct
http://www.leisureshopdirect.com/caravan/v...ux_Fridges.aspx
The element i ordered form thier site was 105watt 230v which is listed as the correct one for the 4230 fridge. The one i have just removed was 125watt 240v. Does anyone know if this part is correct maybe it has been changes previously and the wrong one fitted . I will not be able to test te fridge untill i go away at the weekend. As i keep it in storage.

Thanks agaon for everyones help and thanks in advance to anyone who can help me wiht this new query.

Iain

[Metz]

Hi Iain, I would have thought a series 4 fridge would have a 125 watt 240v element, but to be sure check the data plate within the fridge, the information you need is printed on that.

[gary]

As you asked for my opinion then I'll give you an answer, I agree with Metz  

Seriously I don't think it matters either way, probably lower wattage because it's a smaller fridge but as it's adjustable on the thermostat, in truth it doesn't matter

[idb]

So because the 240 is controlled with the thermostat it doesn't matter even if the power of the element is different.

I have checked a few sites that supply the heater element and the all have the replacement for the RM4230 as 230v 105watt.

[gary]

It's even simpler than that, I've just realised the wattages are heat outputs at different voltages, calculating, this gives near the same outputs at the same voltage, in practice I'd suspect the elements are actually the same!

Another tip then, the 62 series are the cheapest element and also have the longest wire connections, this means you can chop them down to fit any fridge