47 replies to this topic

[Bigdrinks]

Et voila !

[attachmentid=4539]

[GLENN]

Thank you you are a star

[GLENN]

Back to the top again for a new member  Glenn

[Maurice]

so all we have to do is--

locate this little grey box...

purchase a remote bit of kit

Install the same bit of kit to somewhere useful
and the plug in the Jack plug...
and tickerty boo.. it works...

Is that right...


PS the pics were good -- just got to find the grey box....

[Sleepy184]

Another thing that goes wrong with these heaters if they are used a lot is the mains heater control PCB fails on the rear of the element box in simple terms this pcb controls 3 relays which connect the 2 elements in series or parrell to give 500.1000 or 2000watts. This PCB will cost you about ?135  to replace.  Good news is they are dead easy for me to mend just 3 components fail which costs about ?5 So if your dealer tells you a new PCB is required PM me I will mend it for you.  Glenn.

Sorry to dig up an old post but I am away in Tenby at the moment and have had a problem with my heater.  After doing a google search, your post came up

We were using our truma heater in our Bailey Bordaux 2003 and all was well, but next time we come to switch the heater on it would not work.  It works on gas but not on electric.  I checked the fuse and the one in the front bench (main set of fuses had blown.  This has been replaced but the heater will still not work.  The fuse in the switch has also been replaced but still no joy.  Is there anything else I could try?  Is there a reset switch on the heaters if so where?  I have had a look at the back of the heater but can't see anything.
Does this sound like the PCB board you were talking about?  If so, do you have any pictures of where I can find the said board?
Many thanks
Andrew

[gary]

Is the green light in the switch on?

Faults can be, it derives it's own 12v control supply from the 240v coming in, if this transformer has packed up then you won't get the green light.  This is on the control board together with three relays, early relays were rated at 10amps and these are known to fail, later control boards used 16amp versions.

Just above the control board is a metal cover which conceals two thermostats, either of these often fail which will also stop the electric heating working.

The control board is in the middle of the fire at floor level, not easy to get at or even see! as the fan assembly and ducting are directly above.

[Sleepy184]

Is the green light in the switch on?

Faults can be, it derives it's own 12v control supply from the 240v coming in, if this transformer has packed up then you won't get the green light.  This is on the control board together with three relays, early relays were rated at 10amps and these are known to fail, later control boards used 16amp versions.

Just above the control board is a metal cover which conceals two thermostats, either of these often fail which will also stop the electric heating working.

The control board is in the middle of the fire at floor level, not easy to get at or even see! as the fan assembly and ducting are directly above.

Cheers Gary,
The green light is not on.  How much do you think I would be looking at for repair of the transformer if that is what it is?

[GLENN]

Sleepy  Any further news on this yet?    Do you have a working knowledge of electrics? this fire has a quite simple electrical  system

Glenn

[Paul-]

I was fortunate in that when the problem was first highlighted with the control panel I got it replaced under warranty

& now that its out of warranty its gone again, & looks like its the original problem

[SBS]

I was fortunate in that when the problem was first highlighted with the control panel I got it replaced under warranty

& now that its out of warranty its gone again, & looks like its the original problem

I had to replace the two thermostats at the base.  Discovered this not because the fire didn't work but because the the campsite electrics kept blowing.  Both had completely disintegrated.

Worth a look.

Mike

[Sleepy184]

Sleepy  Any further news on this yet?    Do you have a working knowledge of electrics? this fire has a quite simple electrical  system

Glenn

Sadly, I have no working knowledge of electrics.  I can change a plug etc but further than that is as far as it goes.  I have booked it into the caravan service department on the 15th.  If anyone can give me any diagrams of what to look for etc, I am going away in my van this weekend so I could have a look.

[kal]

I have a problem whereby it never seems hot enough or is too hot at night in the caravan.

I think this is due to the fact the thermostat is under the bed when the bed is made up.

My plan is to move this to another more convenient position, however is this numbered dial, on/off and wattage switch box actually the the thermostat or just a remote unit and the thermostat is located in the heater its self.

Just need to be sure before pulling it all apart

Thanks

My thanks go to Gary for the information he provided on this forum enabling me to

make-up and fit my own remote sensor.  

Problem.. my Truma Ultraheat, the additional electric heating for Trumatic S 3002 (P),

S 5002 and S 55 T heaters was not switching on again for ages once it was up to

temperature and had turned itself off. (Yes, I know I could just use the heater on gas

but if I'm paying for electric I'd rather use that and save the gas.)

Reason.. the thermostat sensor for this Truma heater fitted to my Ariva caravan is

located at the back of the fire and is monitoring the temperature inside the space at

the bottom of the wardrobe. Once it's nice and toasty in there it takes a long time for

the air to cool down and call for more heat, meanwhile the caravan gets too cold for

comfort.



Solution 1).. Buy a Truma Ultraheat Remote Sensor FF 2 complete with 4m connecting

cable. This you plug into the existing 3.5mm jack plug socket on the control panel at

the back of the fire and position the other end through a drilled hole in a more

suitable place within the caravan. Cost.. around ?33- ?37


Solution 2) Buy a 3.5mm "Mono" Jack Plug and a 10K Thermistor and connect them (solder)

together using 2 feet of suitable electric flex.There's no polarity to worry about just

be careful with your soldering and make sure you don't get any wires touching the

others causing a short circuit. Plug the mono jack into the existing socket provided on

the control panel, which is located at the back of the fire on the bottom left. I found

it best to remove the ducting pipe (1 screw) to see where to plug in the mono jack

plug. Remove the heater front cover.. pull the cover forward at the top and lift up

the retaining springs and fold out cover forwards, lift up until the cover is

released. Carefully thread the wire through from the back of the fire. Fix the 10K

thermistor end to the tube part near the little glass sight glass on the left

underneath the front of the fire using a nylon tie. This Gary says is the best position

for the sensor. I did this job in less than an hour and my problem is solved. Thanks

again Gary.


I don't live near to where I can get electronic parts over the counter so had to buy

online.

Try places like Maplin or Electronelec.. should pay around ?5 inc carriage

Attached Files

•  Truma_Ultraheat_remote_sensor_003.jpg   58.13K   140 downloads
•  Truma_Ultraheat_remote_sensor_002.jpg   58.11K   127 downloads
•  Truma_Ultraheat_remote_sensor_001.jpg   72.18K   115 downloads

[gary]

Thanks Kal, glad your sorted and warm!  

[davec]

popped along to Maplins in  Northampton and they only have a 15k thermistor listed no 10k has anyone got  apart number for Maplins.RS have  a minimum purchase quantity I think.

Thanks  a lot

[Cricketer]

RS have  a minimum purchase quantity I think.

Not if you order online